Mac pro case pc motherboard
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Straight cut of the long sides thanks to the big angle grinder. Shorter sides were done with the Dremel for precision towards the edges. I removed all the Motherboard standoffs from the inside, cleaned the surface with Isopropyl alcohol and glued the standoffs in the new places for ATX Boards using the 2K Aluminium Epoxy.
Apple Motherboard - Logic Board
This took a lot of measure to fit a mainboard in the right position for the PCIe-Slots. I bought test-boards that were placed in the empty case with a graphics card plugged in and then the screwholes werde marked on the stencils. Then, the stencil was taken out. There is no tray necessary under the mainboard. So I bought the right 2K-Aluminium-paint had to try different ones to find the perfect colour and shade and handed four cases with the paint over to a professional paint shop arm-industry - specialized on parts for tanks. They were happy to try this because they wanted to train their varnisher-apprentices on something that is more difficult than the usual tank-parts.
They returned from the paint-shop with some varnish-runs on the bottom of the cases. They also missed some spots that were hard to reach. Crucial for keeping it warm.
Aftermarket Motherboard to Fit in MacPro … - Apple Community
To keep the shed warm, I used a big oven and additional electric heaters. I had a compressor on hand with 30m hose and used a spray-gun for coating the cases with Aluminium-paint. We used the spray-gun for car parts before. The freshly sprayed cases were put in a sauna at roughly 80 degrees Celsius. That sped up the hardening and caked the varnish in. Now they are 4x4. The IPEX?
Basicaly the underside of ALL cases looks like this - because they were placed on their feet for drying or Spraying. You will never see this when the case is standing on its feet. The Apple-fans were removed from the fan bracket.
Can I upgrade my MAC PRO with another Motherboard or better CPU?
They were loud and needed re-wiring anyways. It is recommended to put more modern fans in there. I renewed the rubber-fixings where necessary. You do not need screws to put fans in. They are held in and decoupled by the rubber. Vibration is not passed on to the case. I put the PCIe slot brackets back in they were also painted, of course using the rubber-headed HDD screws from other cases.
In case you want to add more HDDs you have the right screws at hand. The fan-bracket fits in its original position. That works fine for most Mainboards. Silent-Wings 2 - 92mm in or move the bracket up a bit - by not inserting the hooks under the lip, but rather clamping the bracket above the lip I did that for the Ryzentosh, it is also very stable.
The Power-Buttons needed to be painted, as well. Over time they lost some of their thin chrome coating due to touching. The 2-K varnish is thicker and will be much more durable. To make them fit perfectly again, I needed to scrape of excess paint from the sides. The buttons would easily get stuck otherwise. The front-panel-boards of all G5s have the same size and fit in all the cases. So, I had 14 front-panels that could be used with BlackCH-Mods-cables, and 14 perfectly painted cases. Re-installing the power-button board with its securing ring.
This took a long time because every button had to be re-adjusted to work nicely again. Also notice the rubber piece on the right-hand side. This is needed to support the front-panel board when plugging in the cable to the connector:.
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Audio works perfectly even though there is a proprietary sensing pin on apples board. That way the front panel audio is basically ON all the time and you can choose other outputs from the task-bar. I used Realtek drivers for Windows in my last two builds. For a Hackintosh you would need to follow BlackCH Mods manual or ask the community about the best settings.
Securing the plug with the black cap. It is pushed down even further than shown in the picture — so it clipped on to the board itself to give the connector more pressure and therefore stability.
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Finally, slide the drive into the mounting-bracket and close the two little retention arms. I really wanted to re-use the original PSU-housing, because of the clever placement in the case. It sits flush with the mainboard at the bottom and the original power- socket is a MUST to reuse for aesthetics and stability. So, I looked for a server-PSU that would fit inside the original housing completely with own housing and fan. Safe and sound. Soldering on the new -internal- power-cable to the original power-socket in the Apple PSU housing.
The cable will be connected to the new PSU inside. As an extension. Supermicro is a very known brand in the professional server market. They are designed to run under full load for years. Hence, they can be really expensive. Many cheap PSUs just claim to be W but struggle to hold that power up for longer periods of time or they degrade.
This will not happen with a Supermicro PSU. That was important to me in order to keep the PSU quiet.
Make it a box
The Powermac Models have a bigger server power-plug C19 suitable for higher power delivery of over Watts. Finished housing with server power jack C19 on the outside and standart plug C13 on the inside. The Dune Pro is made from "precision high grade aluminum" that has been "sandblasted with fine beads" creating a "near perfect anodized surface. There are flexible cooling options as well. The case supports up to a mm radiator for users who want to go the liquid cooling route, and has room for up to a mm CPU air cooler.
Dune also plans to offer a "sound dampening accessory" to help with case acoustics, with a dice pattern that more closely matches the Mac Pro.